Author: Brooke Lucy

Fewer work days start earlier than those of a baker, and the bakers at Winthrop’s Rocking Horse Bakery are no exception. In order to stack the cases with yeasted loaves like the Stehekin Seeded bread or the Sawtooth Sourdough, those working the ovens need to begin by dawn. By the time the bakery doors open at 7am, the air is rich with the scent of the breads, pastries, bagels, pizza, and other savory items that will soon be devoured by Methow Valley residents and visitors. Coffee is brewed, the counters gleam, and the Rocking Horse Bakery is ready for another day serving as a hub for sustenance, summits, and socializing.

Rocking Horse Bakery was already a popular downtown institution when Steve and Teresa Mitchell bought it in 2010. At the time, the Mitchells were living in Vermont, but were exploring options for moving back west. When the Rocking Horse Bakery went up for sale, the Mitchells knew it was a good fit. Both had spent time in the Methow Valley throughout the 1980s-1990s and loved the outdoor recreation possibilities in the valley. The bakery was already viable and had good growth potential. Equally compelling were the demographic makeup of the valley and the opportunity for the Mitchells’ children, Kavi and Neela, to attend the Methow Valley Community School.

The Mitchells’ yin/yang skill set enabled them to hit the ground running when they took over the bakery. “We just dived right in,” says Teresa. Although Teresa’s background is in education, she was no stranger to the culinary world, and even owned a small business selling her own spice blends. In contrast, Steve has experience at every level of business, from manufacturing to retail sales. Their diverse but complementary backgrounds led them to the division of responsibility they currently enjoy at the bakery. Teresa manages the ordering, the baking, the books, the menu creation, and human resources, while Steve takes care of the front of the house, the equipment, and the building infrastructure.

In the seven years since the Mitchells bought Rocking Horse Bakery, they’ve intuited which aspects of the bakery’s former life were important to retain, and which could be enhanced. One of the key relics from the previous owners is the sourdough starter, now 17 years old; it’s a component of many of Rocking Horse’s products. Another holdover is the use of Bluebird Grain Farms products. The bakery’s previous owners had used Bluebird’s freshly milled flours in several of their breads, and at the time Bluebird was the only locally-sourced ingredient in the bakery. Teresa preserved that tradition and has worked to incorporate Bluebird products into many of the bakery’s other mainstay menu items: pizza crust, bagels, and breads. “It has improved the quality of our products significantly,” says Teresa.

Bluebird products are also retailed in the bakery, along with 20 other local vendors. “Bluebird was our first,” says Teresa, “and it remains at the heart of our resale business.”

Teresa addresses the decision to fully commit to using Bluebird and other locally-sourced products. “It reflects our personal values,” she says, “using resources that are close by.” Teresa also recognizes that the local clientele–who sustain the bakery even when 2 out of 3 roads into the valley are closed–values local ingredients. “A lot of our menu development is specifically for the locals,” says Teresa, noting the adventuresome eating habits of local customers. “They’re very food savvy.”

Noticing what locals like has led to further development of the bakery’s savory menu. A number of the bakery’s savory recipes use Teresa’s custom spice blends, and she’s always looking for new ways to make the bakery’s popular soups and sandwiches. She has also developed new recipes around Bluebird’s whole grains, such as the bakery’s emmer biryani, a South Asian-inspired grain dish using Bluebird’s whole emmer-farro instead of the traditional rice.

Although Teresa is the chief baker in the family, Steve’s influence on the menu is apparent in the whoopie pies, whose origins, like Steve’s, are in New England. “We even import the fluff filling from New England,” Teresa says.

Longtime visitors to the Methow Valley may recall Rocking Horse Bakery in its former location, one door north of its current venue. “We used to look through the window of the current space when it was a real estate office,” says Teresa, “and covet it.” Serendipitously, that space became available in 2013 and the Mitchells built it out and moved in. “We only closed for 2 days for that move,” says Teresa.

With its high ceilings and fun, funky decor, the “new” bakery space is not just a place to fill your stomach, but it’s also the site of countless meetings, planning sessions, impromtu reunions, board recruitment functions, and even job interviews. On slower days, some locals are known to park themselves at the bakery and work remotely all day. “We love all the different ways our customers use the bakery,” says Teresa (although secretly I wonder what she thinks of the occasional visitors who plant themselves at a table and stream movies for hours, taking up bakery bandwith). It’s a comfortable space, with great light and good acoustics; it’s no wonder Rocking Horse is one of the valley’s preferred gathering spots.

The bakery has been somewhat of a family venture over the years, with the Mitchell’s oldest, Kavi, working at the bakery counter since he was 14 and his younger sister, Neela, helping with big events and some of the artistic aesthetic of the space. Still, despite the year-round demands of the bakery, the Mitchells get out on fantastic trips with their kids. “We prioritize travel,” says Teresa. “Our kids [both adopted from India] are products of the world, and we want to expose them to the great wide world and different ways of living.” Teresa expresses gratitude that through international travel, her kids have cultivated a passion for art and culture.

Along with travel, the Mitchells somehow carve out time for other passions, such as Steve’s photography business, Mitchell Image.  Kavi graduated from high school in early June, so they’re taking him to start college in Colorado in the fall. Oh, and their head baker is on leave. “It’s crazy times,” says Teresa. “Luckily we both have good endurance.”

Visit the Rocking Horse Bakery next time you’re in Winthrop, at 265 Riverside Ave.

When I call Bob Bird and introduce myself he commands me to “Say it like an Italian!” Startled, I introduce myself again, this time with the proper accents and flourish, “Mi chiamo Ashley Lo-DAH-to!” My name is Ashley Lodato. Then he starts rattling away to me in rapid-fire Italian. All I can do is repeat myself, “Ho dimenticato quasi tutto,” I have forgotten almost everything.”

I may have lost most of my Italian, but Bob Bird most certainly has not. The product of a wartime romance between his Italian mother and his Wisconsin father in the 1940s, Bob Bird remains decidedly connected to his Italian heritage. Which seems a bit unusual, when you consider the fact that he was raised in the Midwest and has resided in southern Alaska for decades; neither place is exactly a hotbed of Mediterranean culture. But most of Bird’s family back in Italy never learned English, he says, “So if I wanted to talk to my saintly beautiful grandmother I had to learn Italian.”

The Italian language was not the only gift Bird’s grandmother gave him; she also imparted to him a love of baking bread. “My grandmother made bread every day,” says Bird. “It was white bread, Tuscan style. I wanted to do that.” Tuscan bread is unique, and often requires a knowing palate to be fully appreciated. It’s dense and unsalted, and is typically used to accompany the main meal as a vehicle for mopping up sauces. The bread has little flavor of its own, instead absorbing the flavors of whatever food it complements. (When it’s fresh from the oven, however, Bird’s wife, Rosemary, comments that it’s “as good as dessert!”).

Bird had been baking Tuscan bread for years, along with homemade pasta and gnocchi (dumplings), when he had a stroke and was told to give up grains from his diet. “My health advisor [Rolfer Mark Hutton] told me that I had to scratch some things permanently from my diet–grains, potatoes, rice–I told him ‘You can’t possibly tell me that bread is off the list!'” That is indeed what Hutton was advising, however. But he threw Bird a lifeline, telling him, “When I really want to make pancakes or waffles, I get grains from this place that does not have the growth hormones and other additives they’re putting in grains these days.” And that was Bob Bird’s introduction to Bluebird Grain Farms.

Bird placed an order immediately and a few days later made a batch of bread with Bluebird grains–the first of the hundreds of loaves he has made since. “I like to bake six loaves at a time,” he says. “I make small loaves and freeze them, so they don’t get moldy.” The neighbors, it seems, can’t get enough of Bird’s twice-risen bread, so Bird supplies not only his own household but also those around him who are clever enough to just happen to drop by on baking day.

Despite a military background, Bird doesn’t seem like the kind of guy to stick rigidly to routine, and his Tuscan bread reflects this free spirit. “I put salt in my Tuscan bread,” he says unapologetically.” Poppy seeds and sesame seeds on occasion, as well. He also experiments with different blends of flour. “I get the best compliments when I use the Red Wheat and the Emmer for the flavors,” he says, “but I also love the Pasayten Hard White.” Bird also uses Bluebird’s farro pasta flour to make gnocchi (with white sauce and shrimp) and acknowledges that he sees the value of using Bluebird’s pancake and waffle mix, but prefers making his own from scratch using that beloved Pasayten Hard White.

Pizza, too, is a staple in the Bird household. “I’m constantly improving my technique,” says Bird, referring to the process of letting his crust (that Pasayten Hard White flour again!) age in the refrigerator for 2 days without rising before pre-baking the crust at 500 degrees (“I wish my oven went above 500!” he laments), adding toppings and pesto, and returning it to the oven for 5 more minutes. “I take college kids in the Alaska League Baseball program into my house every summer,” says Bird, “and they love this pizza.”

If you’re thinking that all this time for baking means that Bird is a retiree, think again. True, he is retired from 40 years of teaching public school. But he still teaches at Kenai Peninsula College as an adjunct faculty member, instructs a local homeschool program, coaches youth hockey, hosts a radio program with KSRM, and, if internet photos are any indication, enjoys hunting and fishing trips. (“I have a cornucopia of activities,” says Bird.) Oh, and he also ran twice for the US Senate, in 1990 and 2008. “I don’t flinch from being in the hot seat,” Bird says.

It was while he was on a radio talk show discussing political issues that Bird was offered his own program. “After one of my political appearances they said to me, ‘We’d like you to create your own show.'” A homeschool student came up with the name–The Bird’s Eye View–and Bird comes up with the content. Characteristically, he does not limit himself to one genre. “I talk about politics, art, religion, and all things Alaska–plane crashes, bear attacks,” says Bird. The Bird’s Eye View, which has a listening audience of 50,000 airs from 3-5pm Alaska Time, Monday through Friday.

In February 2017, Bird interviewed farmer Sam Lucy on The Bird’s Eye View and shared with Sam his own health successes with Bluebird’s grains, despite advice to quit bread. In March, Bird says, another listener called in saying, “I heard your show about that grain farm and ordered some.” The caller was very appreciative, notes Bird.

It’s conversations like these that intrigue Bird, for they help him forge connections with listeners from around the state and across the country, and which help determine his path forward with The Bird’s Eye View. ”

I’m still learning,” Bird says, “but it’s a lot of fun.”

Bremerton is abuzz about Saboteur Bakery, as evidenced by social media posts singing the praises of Saboteur’s brioche sucré, swooning over its ham and cheese croissants, and driving two hours to procure some of its panettone. “I can’t believe it,” says owner and baker Matt Tinder. “People are driving from Bellingham to buy scones.”

Saboteur may be a relative newcomer to the Bremerton area, but its products have taken root in the community’s palate. No matter what sweet or savory bundles of baked goodness Tinder puts on the display shelves, supply at both Saboteur locations is reduced to crumbs by closing time at 1pm, sometimes earlier.

So what’s Saboteur’s secret? Nothing, says Tinder, who has been known to share his recipes. “I just want to make food that people want to eat.”

Tinder was raised in Hawaii and developed a palate for fresh and natural foods. “It wasn’t deliberate, we weren’t strict,” he says, “but there was a lot of tropical fruit, an avocado tree in the back yard. It’s just how we ate.” Although he grew up eating carob instead of chocolate and dried fruit instead of candy, Tinder’s approach now is balanced. “I like really good ingredients,” he says. “And I want foods that are supposed to be treats–that are supposed to be a bit sinful–to taste great and be well-made.”

It’s this acceptance of the appropriateness of “sin” in food that makes Saboteur’s cafes such welcoming places. “I don’t preach about ingredients,” Tinder says. “I present the food the way I believe it should be presented, and then we treat people with respect and let them make their own decisions.”

Self-taught through jobs ranging from burger joints on Kauai to Michelin-starred restaurants in northern California, Tinder moved to Bremerton to start a bakery business with his fiancé, Kate Guiggio. Two years later, Saboteur operates in two locations: a full bake shop in Manette and a retail location downtown.

Tinder does all the baking himself. “I like working alone,” he says. For some, a baker’s punishingly early hours are a necessary evil of the job; for Tinder, they’re one of the benefits. “It’s quiet,” he says, “I like the focus.” This preference for professional independence supports the online reputation that Tinder is developing as a “restless perfectionist.” He laughs when I tell him about it. “If you do anything for a living that’s redundant, you’re inevitably going to end up with some things you’re not happy about,” he says. “What I like is being able to go back into the bakery again the next morning and do it all again, and make it better.”

There is redundancy in baking, certainly, when one has customers lined up outside the bakery door at opening time, all seeking a twice-baked almond croissant. Tinder must bake a lot of croissants, dozens of bagels, and mountains of bostock. But Tinder also thrives on doing what few others do, so he has verged into meat pies, and is quietly becoming one of an elite cadre of artisan panettone bakers in the world (read more about panettone–considered “the Everest of pastry”–here). “If it isn’t widely available,” Tinder says of infrequently-baked pastries, “I want to make it.”

Tinder learned of Bluebird Grain Farms when he was working at Coi and The Restaurant at Meadowood in northern California, but it wasn’t until he moved up to Washington that he was able to test it. “When I moved to Washington I got every local flour I could get my hands on,” he says. “I wanted the best performing flours. I wasn’t going to use a local flour just because it was local–it also had to be great. Out of all the stuff I tested, I liked Bluebird the most.”

Saboteur offers whole grain breads using Bluebird’s emmer, Einka, and rye flours. “I like to offer whole wheat as whole,” Tinder says, “I don’t cut it with white flour.” He continues, referring to the cost of some of his loaves, which can run as high as $10 or $11. “If I’m buying the best ingredients,” Tinder says, “I have to charge what I charge. And if customers care about what they’re putting in their body, they’re going to realize why the cost is higher than they’re used to.”

Owning and operating his own bakery, as well as being the sole baker, does not come without challenges. But Tinder faces them philosophically. “The more organized I get, the more product I can make,” he says. “The demand for Saboteur to grow is there, but I don’t want to grow too fast. It takes time to put all the pieces together.” Pieces such as connecting with farmers and identifying sources for his products, developing new products, and–his most recent project–getting Saboteur’s sandwich program off the ground.

Some of the time to figure out new programs and next moves comes during the biannual bakery closures–once in the summer and once in the winter. They travel a bit, visit old friends in California, and then head back to Bremerton to work. “I do a lot of brainstorming in my head and on paper,” Tinder says. “Saboteur is a small business and I can’t afford to just buy a bunch of expensive ingredients and experiment. But I do pretty well with the preliminary stages happening on paper.”

Once the bakery has been closed for a while, it takes a few days to get it up and running again, says Tinder; he has to order in fresh supplies and get his leavening active again. Customers have usually been forewarned to stock up in anticipation of a bakery closure, but for many customers Tinder’s brief breaks represent a time of simply enduring until the next fix of fresh currant scone or almond torte. And then Saboteur’s doors open again and Tinder goes back to the business of doing the same thing over and over, making it better and better each time.

Learn more about Saboteur Bakery on Facebook or by visiting their website.

by Bluebird Grain Farms writer Ashley Lodato

If you’ve been looking for an excuse to visit Reykjavík, Iceland, Sandholt Bakery is the answer. It might seem like a long way to travel for a crusty sourdough loaf or a flaky Danish, but add in the bakery’s nearly 100-year history and you’ve got an educational opportunity on your hands.

The recipes may have changed since the original Sandholt Bakery opened its doors in 1920, but the philosophy remains the same: use the best ingredients and avoid taking shortcuts in order to produce the best-quality breads and pastries for Sandholt customers. These principles have guided four generations of master bakers at Sandholt, as they seek to straddle the line between innovation and tradition.

Iceland has a long and complicated history with grain productions. When the Vikings settled in Iceland in the middle of the 9th Century, a warm period allowed them to harvest rye, barley, and wheat, which were staples of their diet for nearly 500 years. But a cold spell set in during the 14th century and for another 500 years grain farming was not viable and grain consumption was minimal. During the modern era, says Sandholt apprentice baker Aðalheiður Reynisdottir, people in Iceland became accustomed to eating processed flours in bag mixes. Perfectly serviceable, certainly, but lacking both the nutrition and the taste of the freshly-milled flours that Sandholt Bakery uses. This commitment to whole grains and ancient varieties is what has set Sandholt Bakery apart from other, more conventional, bakeries for almost a century. Says Reynisdottir, “We put a lot of effort and thought into our products and I believe the customer can see and appreciate that.”

Sourcing flour in Iceland is, as you might imagine, difficult. Many suppliers are simply unwilling to ship to the country. In Bluebird Grain Farms, however, Sandholt Bakery found not only a willing supplier, but also one who shares Sandholt’s passion for grains that are as packed with nutrition as possible. Bluebird was willing to ship ancient grain flours, yes, says Reynisdottir, but “what interested us even more about Bluebird Grain Mills is the flour is stoneground meaning the flour from the mill is more nutritious.”

Sandholt Bakery features several sourdough breads daily, including einkorn and emmer loaves using Bluebird flours. “We couldn’t be happier,” says Reynisdottir of the flours. “The flour makes the bread rise brilliantly and we have also been experimenting with Einka natural yeast and the results are fascinating. It ferments quicker than yeast from white flour, making it ideal to use.”

Sandholt is on a bit of a mission, according to Reynisdottir, as Icelandic customers are “realizing that bread isn’t just bread.” As more nutritious (and infinitely more delicious) products are appearing in Icelandic bakeries, says Reynisdottir, Icelandic customers are “opening their minds to new and healthier options that for so long have been unavailable in Iceland.” Breads made from as kamut, quinoa, barley, spelt, and bulgar, as well as einkorn and emmer, are mainstays on the Sandholt menu, and are cultivating the Icelandic palate. “This makes me as a baker very happy because that means all our work bringing in new flour is paying off,” says Reynisdottir.

In the future, global climate change may well prove a boon to the grains market in Iceland. Temperatures in Iceland have been steadily rising, allowing farmers to begin growing grains again in earnest for the first time since Viking days. Since the mid 1990s, grain production in Iceland has increased 1000% and the government has begun to offer support to grain farmers. For now, however, Sandholt relies on imported grains.

Sandholt’s current master baker,  Ásgeir Sandholt, holds degrees in art and graphic design, and his artistry is evident in the aesthetics of Sandholt’s breads, pastries, and confections.  While for showy chefs the physical presentation of delicacies seems to take precedence over taste and quality, an impressive list of accolades and awards is testament to the fact that Ásgeir Sandholt remains committed to quality artisanal products. Under Ásgeir’s direction, the bakery staff seek inspiration from old traditional recipes but constantly experiment to find new ways to surprise and delight customers. They enjoy “treading new paths in bakery and food culture,” and this means working with a wide range of “raw, honest materials” to create the tastiest offerings baked offerings possible.

Perhaps due to the scarcity of flour for so many generations in Iceland, baked goods don’t feature as prominently on the holiday menu as they do in North American and European households. Still, Christmas cookies like gingerbread and syrup cookies are popular around the holidays, as are a signature cookie called Lakkrístoppar: a type of meringue cookie filled with licorice and chocolate–a unique Icelandic combination, says Reynisdottir. And for the past few years Sandholt as been experimenting with a spicy Christmas bread, in which “people seem very interested,” says Reynisdottir.

And how could people not be interested in such a Sandholt product, one might well ask? Like everything else at Sandholt, the bread is fresh and made from scratch, using traditional baking methods built on four generations of craftsmanship. And quality, like Sandholt Bakery itself, always endures.

For more information about Sandholt Bakery, visit their website.